Favela tours have become one of the most popular yet controversial tourist activities in Rio. Thinking about checking out the favelas?
It’s definitely a unique experience that offers a real peek into the heart of the city. However, these tours can be problematic because they often reduce the struggles of favela residents to mere entertainment, perpetuating stereotypes and overlooking the complex realities of their lives.
I took my first favela tour back in 2011, with my understanding shaped mostly by what I’d seen in Brazilian soap operas. At that time, it felt like just another activity to check off my bucket list, so I didn’t really question it.
After returning from a three-month trip to Brazil, I decided to study Latin American Studies, focusing on Brazilian cinema and its portrayal of favelas. During my academic career, I visited the favela of Vidigal many times while researching the NGO Nós do Morro.
I understand the fascination with the favelas and the desire to take a tour to learn about what life is like there and whether it resembles the depictions seen in movies and shows.
Today, I make an effort to educate myself before engaging in any tourist activities related to local cultures, especially those that may have environmental impacts or involve animals.
Before making a decision, take a moment to understand what visiting the favelas truly involves. I’ll also provide some alternative ways to engage with the vibrant spirit of Rio’s communities in a respectful manner.
What Is a Favela?
Favelas are informal settlements often labeled as shantytowns, primarily linked with poverty and crime. But the reality is much more complex than that.
The first favela was established by veterans of the Canudos War who settled on Morro de Providência as a form of protest after they were denied compensation for their service. The name “favela” is thought to originate from a bush known as “favela” that grows in Bahia, the site of the Canudos War.
Today, Rio de Janeiro is home to over 700 favelas, each with its own unique characteristics and challenges. There is no one way to define the favela.
From the beginning, favelas have disrupted the idealized image of Rio as a modern, progressive city, creating a stark contrast between the morro (the hills where the favelas are located) and the asfalto (the formal city below). This division has profoundly shaped Rio’s social landscape for decades.
For a long time, residents lived under the constant threat of forced removal, a reality that still affects some areas today. Leading up to the 2014 World Cup and the 2016 Olympics, many favelas underwent significant changes with the introduction of Pacification Police Units (UPP), which aimed to reduce crime and improve safety. While the program had mixed results, it symbolized an effort to integrate favelas into the broader city.
Despite the challenges, some favelas today have seen improvements in infrastructure, some homes even include pools or are rented on Airbnb.
The community aspect, often referred to as “Comunidade,” is central to favela life, emphasizing the tight-knit, self-sustaining nature of these neighborhoods.
The Rise of Favela Tours
Favela tours took off around 2005, usually focusing on Rocinha and Vidigal, the largest and most accessible favelas in the touristic Zona Sul.
The fascination with favelas skyrocketed after the international success of the film City of God (2002), which provided audiences with a gritty portrayal of life in these communities. This box office hit opened many eyes to the challenges faced by favela residents, but it also sparked controversy by depicting favelas as violent places filled with intense scenes of children and teenagers fighting and killing each other. As a result, many tourists visit favelas hoping to witness the danger portrayed in movies, further exoticizing these neighborhoods and reinforcing harmful stereotypes.
During my time in Brazil, I met plenty of travelers intrigued by favelas, some just looking for a thrill. One even said, “I want to see children with guns!” Of course, I also encountered many visitors genuinely interested in understanding favela life and while this doesn’t represent all tourists, it highlights some problematic attitudes toward these neighborhoods.
While favela tours can be fascinating, it’s crucial to approach them with awareness and thoughtfulness. They can offer a glimpse into the lives of these communities, but the ethics behind them are complicated. On one hand, they can provide income for local guides and businesses, but on the other, they can reduce real lives to a tourist spectacle.
The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly of Favela Tours
Favela tours are controversial for several reasons:
The Good: Learning and Connecting
If you’re interested in seeing how people live in the favela, these tours can give you a solid perspective.
Some tours are run by local guides who aim to raise awareness about the community’s struggles and strengths. They often focus on art, culture, and social projects happening within the favela, helping to combat harmful stereotypes.
Additionally, they can raise awareness of the needs within these communities, potentially encouraging improvements in infrastructure and economic opportunities.
The Bad: Be Aware of Misrepresentation
In some tours the guides may not be from the favela and the profits don’t go back to the residents but to non-local tour operators and guides.
Some tours might focus on the flashy parts or stereotypes instead of giving you the full picture of daily life. This has led many to categorize favela tours as simply good or bad, but life is never that black and white.
Ultimately, tours often give a misleading impression, with many tourists mistakenly thinking they’re visiting the City of God from the movie. In reality, they’re probably exploring the colorful favelas in the tourist-friendly Zona Sul, while the actual Cidade de Deus isn’t even on the map because it’s too far from the popular spots.
The Ugly:
These tours have sparked moral concerns, as tourism is typically linked to enjoyment, whereas favelas are often associated with poverty. This dissonance has led to the labeling of these experiences as “poverty tourism” that contributed to the exoticization of marginalized communities.
A significant criticism targets tours conducted in jeeps, which can create a “safari” vibe, implying that favela residents are akin to wild animals. Researcher and journalist Ivana Bentes described these scenes:
“The scene is common in Copacabana. A huge green jeep, crowded with tourists dressed as if they were going to an African safari, crosses Avenida Atlantica from the Copacabana Palace. The Jeep Tour takes people from all nationalities to see from ‘close,’ or from the top of the jeep this ‘natural habitat’of a poverty ironically incorporated into the tourist and folkloric image of Rio de Janeiro”
Even with some positive aspects, the overall impact of these tours is limited. The majority of tourists are international visitors, not Brazilians, and they typically spend only a short time in Brazil, so the potential for meaningful social transformation is minimal.
How to Choose a Responsible Favela Tour
If you do decide to go on a favela tour, here are a few things to look for to ensure that your experience is responsible and respectful:
Respect the Residents: Be mindful of the people living in the favelas. Ask permission before taking photos, avoid treating the tour like a safari, and engage with locals respectfully.
Choose a Local Guide: Make sure your tour is run by a resident of the favela. Local guides are more likely to have an authentic, respectful approach, and they can offer deeper insights into the community.
Focus on Social Projects: Opt for tours that highlight community projects, such as educational programs, social initiatives, or cultural events. This not only supports the community but also gives you a more meaningful experience.
Ethical Alternatives to Favela Tours
If you’re uncomfortable with the idea of a traditional favela tour, there are alternative ways to engage with Rio’s communities in a respectful way.
- Hike to Morro Dois Irmãos: The trail starts in the favela of Vidigal, and once you reach the top, you’re rewarded with breathtaking views of both the favela and the city.
- Volunteer with Local NGOs: Many non-profit organizations in Rio work directly with favelas on projects related to education, health, and the arts.
- Support Local Businesses: Spend time at local restaurants, art galleries, or music venues in the favela. You might also consider staying in an Airbnb within the favela for a more immersive experience.
Final Thoughts
Favelas are not just places of poverty or danger. They are vibrant, dynamic communities with rich histories, cultures, and innovations. Before visiting, take the time to learn about these communities and choose tours or activities that align with ethical travel practices.
Feel free to reach out if you have any questions or if you’d like to discuss Brazil further at @reut.sugar.