Favela tours have become one of the most popular yet controversial touristic activities.
In this review of favela tours I’ll try to present different views on the issue for those interested in educating themselves and making an informed decision. I will also provide alternative ways to experience favelas in a more responsible and authentic manner.
I first took a favela tour when I visited Rio in 2011. My understanding of favelas at the time was limited to what I had seen in Brazilian soap operas. For me, it was just another item on the must-do list, like visiting Sugarloaf Mountain, so I didn’t question it.
Today, I make the effort to educate myself before participating in any activities that relate to local cultures, have an environmental impact, or involve animals.
After spending three months in Brazil, I decided to study Latin American Studies with a focus on Brazilian cinema and the portrayal of favelas. During my time in Rio, I visited the Vidigal favela multiple times, researching the work of an NGO and getting to know the community well.
The Appeal of Favela Tours
Many tourists are intrigued by favelas, wanting to see if these communities are like the ones they’ve seen in films or TV shows.
When I studied in Rio, I met plenty of travelers curious about favela life, and I would share insights from my own experiences and research. However, I always emphasized the controversy surrounding favela tours. My goal isn’t to dissuade anyone from taking a tour, but to help people make a more thoughtful decision.
During this time, I came to understand the fascination of favela tours for tourists and the questions they raise about these communities. they wanted to see if it’s just like in the movies or shows they’ve seen.
Favela tours are not inherently bad, but it’s essential to understand the controversies they stir.
Here are a few things you need to know about the favelas of Rio and the whole debate regarding favela tours:
What Is a Favela?
Favelas are informal settlements, often labeled as shantytowns associated with poverty and crime, but the reality is far more complex.
The first favela formed after the Canudos War in the late 1800s, as displaced veterans settled on Morro da Providência.
Today, Rio is home to over 700 favelas, and while the term “favela” is often associated with poverty, the reality is more complex. Today, there is no one way to define the favela.
e. From their beginnings, favelas disrupted the idealized image of Rio as a progressive, modern city, highlighting a stark contrast between the morro (the hills, where the favelas are located) and the asfalto (the “formal city” below). This division of the city into two worlds has been a defining feature of Rio’s social landscape.
Originally seen as illegal settlements, favelas were once dominated by shacks and tin-roofed houses crammed together in informal neighborhoods. For a long time, residents lived under the constant threat of forced removal, a threat that persists in some areas even today.
In the lead-up to the 2014 World Cup and the 2016 Olympics, many favelas underwent significant changes, with the introduction of Pacification Police Units (UPP) aimed at reducing crime and improving safety. Although the pacification program had mixed results, it symbolized an effort to integrate favelas into the broader city.
However, the struggles remain—drug-related violence still affects certain communities, and the stigma surrounding favela life persists.
Despite their association with poverty, some favelas today feature real homes with improved infrastructure, some have pools and even serve as Airbnbs.
However, favelas still face significant challenges, including drug violence and ongoing stigmatization.
The community aspect, often referred to as “Comunidade,” is central to favela life, emphasizing the tight-knit, self-sustaining nature of these neighborhoods.
The Rise of Favela Tours
Favela tours began around 2005, with Rocinha and Vidigal—the largest and most accessible favelas—becoming the most popular sites for these tours.
Some guides are from the community, offering more authentic insight, while others are outsiders who may not fully grasp the complexities of favela life.
The fascination with favelas skyrocketed after the international success of the film City of God (2002), which portrayed the violence and crime in these communities. Today, many tourists visit favelas hoping to see the danger depicted in movies, furthering the exoticization of these communities.
When I lived in Brazil, several tourists asked me to take them to the favela because they wanted to “see the danger.” One even said, “I want to see children with guns.” While these individuals may not represent educated travelers, they reflect the problematic attitudes some visitors have when approaching favelas.
The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly of Favela Tours
Favela tours are controversial for several reasons.
Some view them as a form of “poverty tourism,” where outsiders come to stare at the residents’ living conditions.
Criticism is particularly harsh for tours that feel safari-like, with tourists viewing favelas from the comfort of jeeps. These tours have sparked moral outrage, as they often embody the exoticization of the “Other.” Scholar and journalist Ivana Bentes described the scene vividly:
“The scene is common in Copacabana. A huge green jeep, crowded with tourists dressed as if they were going to an African safari, crosses Avenida Atlantica from the Copacabana Palace. The Jeep Tour takes people from all nationalities to see from ‘close,’ or from the top of the jeep this ‘natural habitat’of a poverty ironically incorporated into the tourist and folkloric image of Rio de Janeiro”
Another issue is the economic impact. In many cases, the profits from these tours do not go back to the residents, with most of the revenue going to non-local tour operators and guides.
Additionally, many tourists leave with a skewed perception, confusing the favelas they visit with the violent image portrayed in films like City of God. It’s also important to note that the actual favela from the movie City of God is not even on the tourist map, as it’s far from the usual touristic areas.
So, with all this criticism, why should anyone take a favela tour? As I said, there are two sides to every coin.
There are positives as well.
Favela tours have brought greater visibility to these communities, which in turn has helped improve infrastructure, transportation, and economic opportunities in some areas.
For many tourists, favela tours offer first-hand encounters that contradict the violent stereotypes seen in media. These tours challenge long-standing misconceptions and provide a deeper, more nuanced understanding of Rio’s social fabric.
During the World Cup in 2014 and the Olympics in 2016, favela tours played a role in raising awareness about government policies and human rights violations in these communities. For some visitors, these tours highlight the social inequalities and the need for sustainable development.
However, the benefits of these tours remain limited. The vast majority of tourists are international visitors who spend only a short time in Brazil. As a result, the potential for meaningful social transformation is minimal.
Alternatives to Favela Tours
If you’re interested in learning about favelas without participating in a tour, there are other options:
- Hike to Morro Dois Irmãos: The trail begins in the favela of Vidigal, and once you reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of both the favela and the city. Reaf more about it here.
- Volunteer: Many NGOs operating in favelas welcome volunteers, offering you the chance to engage with the community in a meaningful way.
- Stay in an Airbnb in the Favela: This will allow you to immerse yourself in local life.
Final Thoughts
Favela tours are a complex and controversial issue. While the curiosity to explore these communities is understandable, I encourage everyone to make informed decisions. If you choose to visit a favela, consider alternatives or opt for tours led by residents to ensure your visit contributes positively to the community.
Feel free to reach out if you have any questions or if you’d like to discuss Brazil further at @reut.sugar.
