The Negev — Israel's southern desert — has always been a draw for its unique textures, wild colors, and open landscapes. When the pandemic hit and Tel Aviv started feeling suffocating (quarantine in a small apartment is not fun, I'll tell you that), I knew I needed out. As soon as the government allowed travel and natural parks reopened, I grabbed a friend who happens to be a tour guide and two other friends and headed south.
There was just one problem — hotels were still closed. So this little city mouse camped for the first time ever. I survived, and I'm here to tell you everything.
Before You Go: Tips for a Negev Trip
- Download maps offline. Reception disappears fast out there — download your area on Google Maps before you leave.
- Winter is ideal — you won't suffer under the desert sun. But nights get very cold, especially outside the craters. Pack warm layers for evenings.
- What to wear: The trails are easy. I did them in skirts and shorts. Just avoid black tights — they turn completely dusty every time you sit down.
- Two days is enough to see a lot. We even went back to places we loved from a previous trip.
What makes the Negev special beyond the sights is the vibe. For two days we completely disconnected — no phones (except for calls to the dog sitter), no Zoom, no city noise. After months of working from home it felt like we'd landed on another planet. We came back with genuinely new energy.
Where to Stay in the Negev
Camping at Be'erot Night Park
In October 2020 we camped at Be'erot Night Park, located inside the Ramon Crater — which means it's warmer at night than camping outside the crater. The campground has shaded areas, picnic tables, BBQ spots, and toilets and showers that were surprisingly comfortable. There's also a small grocery stand with coffee, and the Nature and Parks Authority staff can suggest trails.
Entrance: 100 NIS per tent. Mattress rental: 10 NIS. Book on the Nature and Parks Authority website. Honest note: I didn't sleep brilliantly — that had more to do with me than the campsite.
Silent Arrow, Mitzpe Ramon
In 2019 we stayed at Silent Arrow — large dormitory tents with comfortable mattresses, heating, heavy blankets, a kitchen, and private showers. It sits right off the road but the moment you step out you forget civilization exists. The area has sand dunes for stargazing, and you can practice archery. This is the comfortable non-camping option that still feels completely immersed in the desert.
Viewpoints: 50 Shades of Brown
Avnon Viewpoint
At Avnon you get a full 360 degrees of desert, desert, and more desert. My favorite spot in the Negev — and not just for the view. When we were there, wild camels were wandering nearby, no saddles, no handlers. These aren't the tourist camels at Kfar Hanokdim. They seemed to belong to a Bedouin in the area and were just roaming freely. For someone like me who grew up in a city, watching animals walk in the wild like I'm on safari was incredible. One of them got so close while we were sitting on the cliff I nearly fainted.
How to get there: Set Yeruham on Waze and drive straight through the city until you reach its edge. Then take the dirt road and continue straight until you see a small hill. Park and walk up — or just enjoy the view from the bottom.
Ben Gurion's Tomb National Park
This is a place I keep coming back to — not because of the tomb, but because of the ibexes. The park sits on a cliff with a beautiful view over Ramat Abdat and Nahal Zin, and the surrounding green area is full of ibexes wandering freely. When I arrived I ran out of space on my iPhone before I even reached the tomb. Come prepared.
The historical side is worth a moment too. Ben Gurion lived in Tel Aviv (in the avenue named after him), but fell in love with Sde Boker later in life and asked to move there. The residents initially refused — they wanted to preserve their simple lifestyle. Eventually they agreed, and he was buried there alongside his wife.
Admission: Free.
Trails: Easy Enough for Someone Who Avoids Exercise
Ein Ovdat National Park
Ein Ovdat is a national park with a stunning oasis at the bottom of a rocky canyon. You can reach the small pool in about 30 minutes and turn back, or continue for roughly two hours and exit at the top of the canyon (arrange a pick-up for that option). There are shaded rest spots along the way. No eating or swimming allowed in the park. Entrance: 20–30 NIS.
Saharonim, Harut, and Ardon Trails
These trails are right next to the Be'erot campsite inside the Ramon Crater. From the Saharonim parking lot, walk about 30 minutes to the trailhead — there's a huge shady tree there, perfect for a rest. Trails range from 2 to 6+ hours. We obviously chose the shortest: the 2-hour round trip to Harut Hill. You walk, then do a short 15-minute rocky climb to the top. Going up is manageable — kids do it, out-of-shape adults do it, I did it. The views of the crater and Mount Ardon from the top are worth every step.
Stopping Points Worth the Detour
Yeruham Lake
An artificial lake built in 1953, originally for irrigation. Nice for a picnic and birdwatching in winter when water birds pass through. Calm, easy stop.
The Nabatean Cities — Shivta & Mamashit
Two preserved archaeological sites from the ancient Nabatean people who wandered this region around 300 BC. They eventually converted to Christianity, so you'll find churches among the ruins. Shivta is free. Mamashit National Park: 20–30 NIS.
The Minsara (Carpentry Rock)
A geological oddity — sandstone slabs shaped exactly like wooden planks. The rocks were formed when sandstone melted by hot magma cracked in a specific pattern as it cooled. A floating bridge lets you walk around the formation without touching it. Strange and worth a stop.
Ruch, Even, Mayim (Wind, Rock, Water)
A natural pool that fills with rainwater — lovely when full, less so when dry. Good for a quiet picnic. Right next to the Minsara so easy to combine.
Golda Ice Cream — Mandatory Stop
After hiking Harut Hill under the desert sun, we stopped for gas and spotted the Golda sign. Their vegan ice cream brought me back to life. Non-negotiable stop on any Negev trip. There's also an Aroma nearby for cold coffee if that's more your speed.
